Thinking ahead for spring lawn care

Justin was featured on brentwoodlife.net talking about spring lawn care. Check out Justin's contribution below and read the full article at brentwoodlife.net.

Thinking ahead for spring lawn care

By Dan Copp
Contributor

The name Justin Stelter has become synonymous with gardening and landscaping throughout Middle Tennessee. In addition to serving as the director of garden and grounds at Carnton Plantation for more than 10 years, Stelter maintains gardens for nearly 200 private clients.

Stelter has served as the historic garden consultant at the Hermitage from 2009-2012 and serves as a board member of the Southern Garden History Society. In addition, he also serves as a board member of the Professional Landscape Association of Nashville Tennessee and was voted onto the board of Nashville City Cemetery. He is the Third Vice President of the Tennessee Nursery and Landscape Association.

Some of Stelter’s high-end services include complete boxwood care, dry-stacked stone work and espalier installation.

“While those specialty services are unique, it’s our attention to detail in every aspect of our service that sets us apart,” he said.

Although you may not be able to see your lawn right now due to the recent snowfall, Stelter said that planning ahead is paramount.

“It is very important to begin planning your landscape now for several reasons, but the reason I emphasize the most is that proper planning takes time,” he said. “A good, well-balanced design should be both beautiful and functional in all seasons. Winter is the season to take stock of the structure and spatial relationship of a site.”

One key advantage of early lawn-care planning is the additional time that can be dedicated to allow a concept to fully flourish, Stelter said.

“Too many times, projects are rushed to meet a deadline and corners are cut or the concept is not fully realized,” he said. “Extra time is a safeguard against this. Extra time almost always ensures a better plan. Our secrets for a successful lawn and landscape really aren’t secrets; they are old-fashioned, time-tested truths. Each day we wake up as a unified team and strive for excellence by listening to our customers and focusing on the details. In the short-term, many can create something that seems great. But our process is dedicated to the long-term greatness of a site.”

The Benefits of Using Dormant Oil

Dormant oil is a horticultural oil sprayed on plants during their dormant period. The oil naturally repels, discourages feeding, and suffocates problematic pests. Additionally, some fungal diseases like powdery mildew can be controlled. 

The use of dormant oil is a safe and effective way to help control pests such as aphids, caterpillar eggs, mites, scale, thrips and whiteflies while less likely having a negative impact on beneficial insects.

Originally, dormant oil applications were sprayed on fruit trees as a safe alternative to reducing damaging pests because many pesticides could not be sprayed during the growing season for fear of eradicating beneficial insects; especially those that pollinate the fruit. So, dormant oils were the solution.

Now, with improved technology, there are pesticides that are safe to apply during the pollination period, but dormant oils are still an effective method to control problematic pests during the dormant season.

There are two types of dormant oils: vegetable-based and petroleum-based. Organic gardeners prefer vegetable-based dormant oil because residue and toxicity are minimized.

Dormant oils can be sprayed on fruit trees, shade trees and woody ornamental plants that have experienced pest problems during the growing season.

Although dormant oils evaporate quickly, use caution when applying to trees such as Maple, Redbud, Hickory, and Walnut. Phytotoxicity can occur. One example of phytotoxicity damage is leaf burn which occurs if the oil retains or attracts too much heat. Blackened branches or yellowing foliage is the result of this burn. 

Take care when applying dormant oil on certain evergreens. In particular, apply as little as possible on a shady day and follow up with water to keep the foliage from becoming stressed. Additionally, plants under drought stress have an increased risk of injury and can experience leaf burn.

You are the best judge of when and if you should spray your plants. Plants should be sprayed if there were pest problems throughout the previous year. The best time to apply dormant oil is during the winter when buds are swollen but not yet open. To prevent damage, do not apply dormant oils during extreme hot or cold temperatures; if plants are wet; humidity is high; or if sulfur or pesticides containing sulfur have been applied to the plant in the past month. 

Now that you know some of the basics, apply dormant oil as a layer of prevention and a source of protection for your plants. Always read the label before spraying.

For additional information about dormant/horticultural oils, click here. 

A General Guide to Watering

A GENERAL GUIDE TO WATERING

One of the most consistent questions I hear this time of year is, how much should I water my plants? While watering is easy, watering correctly can be complicated. Consider these three factors when watering: time, duration, and frequency.

The age, size, and type of plants also greatly affect water requirements. 

All too often, understanding and correctly adjusting for these factors are the difference between a drooping or dying plant and a lush, healthy landscape filled with happy, thriving plants.

TIME                                                                                                                                     

So, when is the best time to water? Simply put, the best time of day to water is in the morning. Watering early increases more absorption and decreases evaporation.

DURATION

Applying the correct amount of water per plant is critical. Overwatering can lead to disease, distress and possibly death while not watering enough can encourage shallow rooting, yellow or wilted leaves, and will eventually lead to death. A vital component to calculating duration is knowing the soil texture. Sandy soils will require longer and more frequent watering, while heavier, clay based soils will require less watering. 

FREQUENCY

Frequency is the recommended number of times to water per day or week. Typically, three times per week are recommended during the summer months. However, frequency is determined by age and size of your plants, sun exposure, overall temperature, and soil texture. Not all plants have the same water needs, so it is important to accurately determine the sometimes delicate balance between too often and too infrequently.

In general, plants need at least an inch of water per week. Although there are some plants that will either need more or less than an inch, so know your individual plants' watering requirements. Below are general guidelines for trees, turf, and shrubs.

TREES

The University of Tennessee Extension Agency recommend watering trees once or twice weekly during the growing season when rainfall is limited.

TURF

The University of Tennessee Extension Agency mention two "philosophies" for irrigating your turfgrass. One option is to encourage a deep root system by watering less frequently. Water to a depth of at least six inches and water again when signs of drought stress start to show. The second option is to water frequently with a light application. 

Most professionals recommend the first method with the exception of incredibly hot and dry periods. During drought conditions, more frequent watering is necessary.

SHRUBS

The University of Florida IFAS Extension give the following advice for the Southeastern United States. Shrubs that were given proper irrigation during the first growing season after transplanting take approximately 6 months "per inch of trunk diameter" to become fully established. If establishment does not occur due to under watering, more irrigation will need to be used. If newly transplanted, three light frequent irrigation sessions weekly during the first few months are necessary. Then water weekly until fully established. Each session should consist of "2 to 3 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter over the root ball."

I hope this has given you a general guide to watering your plants. If you have any questions concerning the welfare of your plants, please ask. I will be happy to discuss your watering schedule with you. In the meantime...

                                                                                                       Happy Watering,

                                                                                                       Justin Stelter                                                                                                                 
References and additional information:                                                                             http://www.the-daily-record.com/ap%20lifestyle/2013/06/11/good-watering-makes-good-gardens

https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/W161-F.pdf

https://utextension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP682.pdf

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP11200.pdf

Fight Rose Rosette Disease Today

Rose rosette disease has caused irreparable damage to roses in recent years. But this disease is not new. It was reported in Tennessee as early as 1988. As the name suggests, rose rosette only infects the genus Rosa. While both Rosa multiflora and the popular Knock Out rose series are highly susceptible, all cultivated roses are at risk.

Rose rosette disease is caused by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphilus. Although it cannot fly, the eriophyid mite moves by air and floats to neighboring roses.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease include: reddening of the rose stem; long, thin leaves; increased thorniness; flattening of stems; witches' broom; and masses of distorted flower buds. The earlier the detection, the better chance you have of preventing the infection of nearby roses.

Treatment

Rose rosette is fatal if left unchecked. Removal of infected branches can slow the disease. Unfortunately, until a cure is created, completely removing or 'shovel pruning' infected plants is recommended.

Also, please inspect all roses before purchasing.

If you suspect that your rose(s) may be infected with rose rosette disease, call us today for a consultation at (615) 800-0024.

References and additional information:
http://www.newenglandgrows.org/pdfs/ho_WindhamRoseRosette.pdf
http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/personnel/LongB/documents/roseRosette-disease-SP370-J.pdf